Thermo wax-warm-up怠速提速

According to service manual, the 1st idle shall be release around 60 deg Celsus the rpm would drop from 1.5~1.8k to the spec 1.1~1.3k rpm.  That is around 2 visible threads of the adjustment bolt sticking out beneath the platform.  If you do not adjust the dimension "a" of the valve to the right height, the idle would not be release after 80 deg or so temperature and that is waste of gas and time for the warm-up. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ignition coil 考爾

Posts from the forum said the coils deteriorate due to the humidity or intrusion of the water during the car wash.  A very cool lubricate also used for caliper piston ring can be used between the boots and the upper cover of the coil.  Introducing a product is ideal becuase of its good resistance to the water or humidity.  Works in extreme temperature from -40 deg C up to 180 deg C (instant heating up to 230 deg Celsus).  It's good also because it's silicon based and is capable to soften or protect the rubber materials. 

 

Keep my finger crossed for my new Mitsubishi coils.  Hope they last longer...

 

Remove carbon on combustion chamber & top of piston-燃燒室及活塞頂除碳

當然還是要請出改裝的電動抽油機, 電動的才有效率. Let's go down there and check out how thick the carbon deposit has been built in the combustion chamfer.  A modified automatic soaking machine will be very helpful thoughout the process.  

 

 

Oberserving by the endoscope through the spark plug hole, the majority of the fluid stays only on the exhaust side of the piston as the decarbonizer foam is dumped into the cylinder due to the tilt angle of the engine placment.  Therefore, tilting the engine more upright will help the fluid stay more on the intake side of the piston.  The easiest way as shown in picture below will do the job and let the decarbonizer cover more areas on the intake side of the piston.  A phisical rubbing exercise will tremendously facilitate removing the carbon buildup on the piston.  Here below are some critical steps for the tips.

1. Tilt the engine as righup as you can.
2. Make sure the decarbonizer covers the entire piston as the decarbonizer becomes to fluid from the foam stage.
3. Make sure the decarbonizer fluid soak in the carbon long enough.
4. A phisical stirring or rubbing with a special tool will help to break the carbon loose for easier removal.
5. Make sure to soak the used decarbonizer/fluid and carbon residue as much as you can out from the engine.
6. Pumping the engine piston up and down with a rag covering on the cylinder head to catch the decarbonizer/fluid and carbon residue without staring the engine. 
7. A great amount of decarbonizer/fluid would go into the pipe after pumping the engine as step above.  Disattach the exhaust muffler  to let the decarbonizer/fluid inside the exhaust pipe pumping out of the pipe as start the engine.

 

 

 

 

It is important to do this process with endoscope as to see is to believe.  It took 3-4 cans of decarbonizer and at least 48 hours repeating this process to kill the this carbon buildup from 45000km ODO and then I finally saw the shinny surface of the piston top.  It's a bad-ass.